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  • Spitsbergen (Svarlbard)

    I'd never been on a cruise before. And now I am back I don't relish the thought of going on one ever again. Having to move everywhere en masse while people shuffle along complaining about the rough seas (flat calm) and each nationality complaining about the other nationalities on board is not my idea of a wilderness experience. Take more than 20 steps away from the crowd and one of the armed polar bear guards barks instructions to come back. It brought home to me how lucky I was to have had a full on arctic experience on Baffin.

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